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Conservation Resources 
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How to Paint 




DIRECTIONS 



For Applying Paint and 
Varnish With Best Results 



Copyright By 



Sears, Roebuck & Co. 

Chicago, 111. 



A7134 



DON'T ALLOW^ YOUR 
PROPERTY TO RUN DOW^N 



OONGRESS 

I OCT 21 1904 



nfM 





Paint is as important as fire insurance. 
A building may never burn, but unless 
constantly protected by paint it will 
surely decay. Decay is slow burning. 
Paint is insurance against decay. 



As, thjs book is merely intended to give instructions to the users of our 
Ready 'Mixed Paints and other materials mentioned in same, we have not 
stated. ^hy thing about prices. We kindly request those interested in our 
prices on paint and painting material to refer to our General Catalogue, Paint 
Color Sample Book or Special Price List which will be mailed free on application. 
As we state on another page of this book, you will find -that any article in 
this line can be purchased from us at a Very small advance over the actual 
cost of manufacturing. 

Here are a few prices as evidence of our ability to save 
you money on painting material. 

Seroco Ready Mixed House Paint, guaranteed for five years, 
at from 85 to 98 cents per gallon, according to the size of 
the package. 
Seroco Ready Mixed Barn, Roof and Fence Paint, guaranteed 
for five years, at from 50 to 65 cents per gallon, according 
to the size of the package. 
For complete price list, refer to our General Catalogue or to our Paint 
Color Sample Book, either of which we will gladly send you free on request. 



HOW TO APPLY 



SEROCO HOUSE PAINT 




THE WEATHER. A dry day should be selected 
for painting if in any way convenient, ho\ve\ er, paint 
should not be applied when the thermometer regis- 
ters below 50 degrees, as good painting cannot be 
done when the paint is chilled. This thickens it and 
makes it impossible to do a good job, as the coat will 
be hea\-y and streaked. 

THE SURFACE. The surface to be painted must 
be thoroughly dry and free from dirt and loose parti- 
cles of paint. This is \-ery important, for the ])esX pamt 
will not wear when applied on surfaces in poor con- 
dition. Dampness is another enemy of paint. The 
surface must be thoroughly dry, otherwise it is a waste 
of time and money to apply paint over it. In many 
cases paint is applied on a seemingly dry surface, but 
on investigation it is found that the wood is water 
soaked and dry only to a depth of about 3^ of an 
inch. When the sun beats on the surface, a vapor 
is formed which must find an outlet somewhere and 

naturally forces its way through the paint, which, as you may have seen, 

causes the paint to blister and then peel. 

Use a painter's duster for general dusting, a scraper, putty knife or wire 
brush for removing loose paint. A wire brush is especially recommended for 
cleaning iron, brick and stone and a very handy tool for removing rust off of 
all iron work. The above articles can be purchased for very little money. (See 
quotations in general catalogue and color saniple book). 

FIRST COAT OR PRIMING. The proper application of the priming coat 
is very important and generally too little attention is given to this work. For 
new work (a surface that has never been painted before), use a mixture of one 
gallon of boiled linseed oil and one gallon of Seroco Mixed Paint, stir thoroughly, 
then apply, rubbing it out well (brush it out well). The priming coat should not 
be heavy, but plenty should be put on and brushed out well; herein lies the 
secret of successful painting. 

On old painted surfaces, use a mixture of 3^ gallon of boiled linseed oil to 
every gallon of Seroco Mixed Paint and apply in the same manner as aljo\-e. 
After the priming coat has been put on, putty up all nail heads and cracks. 
This should be done with a putty knife, as puttying with the fingers does not 
fill the holes well. 

SECOND COAT. From four to six days should be allowed for first coat to 
dry. The paint for second coat requires no thinning and should be applied as 
you receive it, that is in its natural thickness. Occasionally when the bottom of 
the can or kit is reached the paint is found to be very thick, this is caused by 
its not being properly stirred at the beginning of the painting. In such cases 
add sufficient boiled linseed oil to bring it to the consistency so it will again 
work easily under the brush. For inside work, where our inside white is used, 
thin with turpentine if required. 





LINSEED OIL. 

Never use raw linseed oil for thinning ready mixed 
paints or mixing your own paints unless you are thoroughly 
familiar with the handling of same. Raw linseed oil 
requires a dryer, while boiled oil will dry without the addi- 
tion of a dryer. It is an easy matter to add the dryer, 
but you may use too much, which will result in the 
paint cracking and then peel off, and again, if too little 
is used, the paint may not dry. 

Be sure that the oil you are using is absolutely pure 
as there is nothing on the market just as good. It is important that the oil 
be pure as any adulteration may spoil the entire job. It is difficult to detect 
the adulteration, therefore purchase your oil from a reliable dealer or send to 
VIS for linseed oil. We purchase direct from the mantifacturers and the manufac- 
turer's guarantee of purity is stenciled on every barrel of linseed oil and when 
ordered in full barrels, it will be shipped in the original package as received 
from the manufacturers and not tampered with in any way. 

SEROCO BARN, ROOF AND FENCE PAINT. 

This paint is especially recommended 
for barns, roofs, fences, and all out build- 
ings and when properly applied, it will wear 
many years. It is one of the best preserva- 
tives and will double the life of your build- 
ings. We do not select trimming colors, as 
nearly every color will harmonize with the 
eight' shades in which we furnish it. Where 
a white or any light color for trimming is 
desired, we suggest that our customers 

purchase the Seroco House Paint for trimming, as mineral paint cannot be 
made in light colors. There is absolutely nothing poisonous in the above paint 
and where rainwater is used for drinking purposes there need be no apprehension. 

When ready to use this paint, if in a can, cut out the entire top; if a kit or 
barrel, remove the head or cover. The top must be removed entirely otherwise 
the paint cannot be properly stirred. The oil will be found on the top and the 
pigments on the bottom, which is quite natural. Pour off all of the oil, then 
stir thoroughly, gradually adding the oil which you have previously poured off. 
After this is done the paint is ready for use. Apply with a flat paint or wall 
brush, 4 inches or over in width. Follow directions as given under the heading, 
Seroco House Paint. For roofs, apply in the same manner as above stated. 

SEROCO GRAPHITE-CREOSOTE MINERAL PAINT. 

Adapted for barns, roofs, etc., but is especially recommended for roofs and 

all work which is subjected to continued moisture, svich as timbers of buildings 
close to or partially under the ground, etc. Graphite is the most durable pig- 
ment, while creosote has long been known as the best wood preservative and 
will positively prevent decay. Apply as per directions given for Seroco Barn, 
Roof and Fence Paint. 

SEROCO SHINGLE STAIN. 

This is not a paint, but is a thin liquid which 
stains and preserves shingles and should be used 
as such only. For a shingle preservati\'e there 
is nothing that excels a good shingle stain. 
Shingle stain will not cover as much surface as 
paint, owing to its penetrating qualities, and 
where applied with a brush, a gallon will cover 
about 200 square feet. 

NEW SHINGLES should be dipped in the 
stain before shingling; in this way both sides are 
covered and shingles thus treated wnll never rot 





or warp and will double the life of same. Get an open vessel, pour in the stain, 
then dip the shingles in the stain and immediately take out, lay aside and pro- 
ceed with the next until all of the shingles have been dipped. This can be done 
rapidly and several hundred shingles can be dipped in a short time. 

ON OLD ROOFS, apply with a brush as you would paint, but our Barn and 
Roof or Seroco Graphite- Creosote Paints are recommended for old roofs, as a 
better finish is obtained and where one side only of the shingles are covered, our 
Barn and Rooi or Seroco Graphite-Creosote Paints will preserve as well. 

HOW TO PAINT INTERIORS OF HOUSES. 
INTERIOR PAINT FOR WALLS, WOODWORK, ETC. 

Any of the shades of Seroco House Paint can be used 
for inside painting and make an excellent paint for this pur- 
pose, excepting white of which we make a special paint for 
& ^^S_| ^ ^l^ ^ J inside use cahed "Inside White." Inside woodwork, es- 
^ f^^rff«,.ni7 I f pecially in the kitchen, is more or less greasy, caused by 
the steam and vapor from cooking. Wash the woodwork 
thoroughly with a solution of sal-soda and warm water, 
about a handful to a half bucket of water, a little soap can be 
used in connection with same. When dry apply the paint 
with a flat wall or round paint brush. For painting win- 
dow sash use a No. 4 or 6 sash tool. 
PLASTERED WALLS, which have been white washed or calcimined, should 
first be washed with warm water to remove the white wash or calcimine. In 
this case use a wall scraper and scrape while wet. When thoroughly dry (allow 
about twenty-four hours for drying), apply one coat of Seroco Liquid Wood Filler 
(one gallon of this filler will cover about 300 square feet one coat), which will dry 
in twelve hours, then apply the paint. For the first coat thin the paint with tur- 
pentine, in the proportion of one quart turpentine to one gallon of paint. For the 
second coat apply the paint in its natural thickness ; if too thick thin with tur- 
pentine. Should the white wash or calcimine be very hard and there is no evi- 
dence of peeling, the wood filler can be applied over it without washing and no 
trouble experienced, but should there be the slightest evidence of loose white 
wash, a satisfactory job cannot be had without removing the coating by 
washing and scraping, as above explained. 

Before applying the filler, fill all cracks and holes with plaster of paris ; 
this is prepared by mixing the dry powder with water to the consistency of 
putty. Use at once when prepared, as it will harden in a few moments. If 
ceiling is to be painted do this first, then begin painting at the top in one corner 
of the wall and work downward. 

HOW TO APPLY SEROCO GLOSS ENAMEL. 

While Seroco Ready Mixed Paint is highly recommended 
for interior painting, those wishing a very high enameled 
finish, we can recommend the Seroco Gloss Enamel as being 
superior to anything similar on the market. When applied 
according to directions, which are very simple, you will have 
a hard, glossy and indestructible surface and it can be clean- 
ed at any time with cold water without injuring the finish. 
This material does not work as freely as the Seroco Mixed 
Paints, but with a little attention anyone can do a perfect 
job. It is especially desirable for bath rooms, kitchens, din- 
ing rooms and bed rooms, where a sanitary wall coating, 
which will • not spot or be injured in anyway by coming in 
contact with water, is wanted. 

DIRECTIONS. The woodwork and walls are prepared in the same manner 
as directed for Seroco Ready Mixed Paint. (See page 1.) When the 
surface is ready for painting, remove the entire top of the can and stir the enamel. 




ONE GALLON 

SEROCO 
IGLOSS 1 



Then with a 2 or 23^-inch varnish brush apply the enamel, commencing at the 
top and work downwards. Spread on an even coat and not too sparingly; put 
on plenty of it, but not enough to cause it to run. Do not brush out as you 
would in painting; as few strokes as possible will make a better finish. Should 
the enamel be ver}^ thick, thin Avith turpentine, but do not add more than is 
necessary. 

One gallon of Seroco Gloss Enamel will cover about 200 square feet, two 
coats. For a first class job two coats will haA'c to be applied. Allow twent}^- 
four hours for first coat to dry before applying the second coat. 




HOUSEHOLD ENAMEL. 

This enamel is a very fine article and many a piece of 
old furnitue can be made to look like new with two coats 
of enamel. It can be applied on everything and anything 
with pleasing results; any kind of furniture, iron beds, 
shelves, wicker work, baby carriages, clocks, mantels, 
■fr~~-m:im c:r^-=^ir«»iriiiiH ^°3'^' '^^'^- One-half pint can will cover an ordinary iron 
I I ''ilj^^^i I f^n O ^^ ^^ ^^-""^ ^''^■^^ change the appearance wonderfully. The 
^ Mf/lli\\\'^\\KW^ article to be painted should be washed free from grease. 
If applied o\-er a ground of the same color, one coat will 
be found sufficient, but if applied o\'er another color, 
two coats will be necessary. Apply with a flat varnish brush. A good brush 
will do the best work. 

Apply an even coat but do not brush out, as you would house paint. The 
enamel should be applied the same as varnish; sufficient should be put on, but 
not enough to make it run. If necessary to thin the enamel, use turpentine only. 

SCREEN ENAMEL. 

Screens should be painted every year, otherwise the^F 
will appear shabby. The work is simple and the time well 
spent. Dust the screens, then apply the enamel with a flat 
bristle varnish brush. A little rust will do no harm, but 
if very rusty, brush with a whisk broom. This enamel can 
be used on the woodwork of the screens as well as the screen. 



STOVE PIPE ENAMEL. 

Old rusty stove pipe can be made to look like the expensive 
japanned pipe by applying one coat of Seroco Stove Pipe Enamel. 

If very greasy, wash with sal-soda and water. Rust can be re- 
moved with a wire brush or sandpaper; a little rust, however, 
will do no harm. The pipes should be cold when applied ; in 
about twelve hours they can be used. At first a little smoke 
will arise and an odor of burning paint will be noticeable, but 
this will disappear in a short time. Steel ranges and all iron 
can be renewed by a coat of Seroco Stove Pipe Enamel. 

ALUMINUM ENAMEL. 





iitensils 



The most durable Silver Aluminum Enamel for any inside and outside dec- 
orations. It will not turn black and is weatherproof. This material is now 
being extensively used by the United States government on mail boxes, etc. 
It can be applied on anything with satisfactor}^ results, such as statuary, 
clocks, bric-a-brac, picture frames, iron railings or any iron work either inside 
or exposed to the weather. 

As with all painting the surface must be clean and free from grease. Apply 
with a flat camel's hair mottling or color brush (no other brush will do), stir 
frequently, as the material settles quickly. Will dry in four hours. 



RADIATOR ENAMEL. 



A hard drying glossy enamel which when dry is not affected 
by heat or water. It is made in sex'eral shades and the radi- 
ators can be painted to harmonize with the surroundings. 
Radiators are not very artistic, but the appearance can be 
changed wonderfully by a coat or two of Radiator Enamel. A 
flat varnish brush should be used for all shades excepting alum- 
inum and gold, which should be applied with a flat camel's hair 
mottling or color brush. The enamel is ready to be applied. 
Thin with turpentine if too thick, excepting aluminum and 
gold shades. The radiators should first be cleaned and free 
from grease; if very rusty, use a steel wire brush for removing 
the rust ; this brush will remove rust in an instant. Apply the enamel when the 
radiator is cold; after twelve hours, steam or water, as the case may be, can be 
turned on. At first a little smoke may arise from the radiator, but this will only 
be for a few moments, for when thoroughly baked the smoke and odor will dis- 
appear. This enamel can be used for all steam heated surfaces such as boilers, 
hot water heaters, etc. 




BATH TUB ENAMEL. 

A special white enamel for bath tubs. By its use an 

old iron or zinc bath tub can be made to look like new. The 
best of care should be taken when preparing the surface, 
as bath tubs are more or less greasy and when not thoroughly 
cleaned the enamel will peel. Give the bath tub a thorough 
scrubbing with a solution of sal-soda and warm water 
When dr}' sandpaper the surface lightly, then apply a coat 
of the enamel with a fiat varnish brush, allow about two 
days for this to dry, then sandpaper again until all gloss 
has disappeared, when the second or finishing coat can be put on. 
days for second coat to dry, when the tub will be ready for use. 




Allow four 



SEROCO FLOOR PAINT. 

Considerable experimenting has been done in order to 
make a floor paint that would dry hard and still retain suflEi- 
cient elasticity that when subjected to constant foot friction 
it will withstand the friction and not show scratches. Ex- 
perience has taught us that floor paints must be made very 
thin in order to accomplish the results desired. Beware of 
heavy floor paints, they will not endure the wear. For 
example, if a heavy coat of paint is applied, drying com- 
mences at once and the top of the coat dries first, which is 
quite natural. Now, if you were to examine it under a 
magnifying glass, you will find that the paint next to the 
wood is still soft and as the air is excluded, on account of the top being dry, it 
would require at least thirty days for it to become thoroughly hard. The Seroco 
Floor Paints are thin and will dry hard in twenty-four hours, also one gallon will 
cover as much surface, three coats, as the ordinary floor paints would cover with 
only two coats. Two coats will generally be found sufficient but we advise 
three coats, which insures a solid surface. 




HOW TO APPLY SEROCO FLOOR PAINT. 

OLD FLOORS, which have been painted, should be scrubbed with soap and 
water. Allow from eight to twelve hours for floor to dry, when the first coat of 
paint can be put on. Allow twenty-four hours for each coat of paint to dry. 
On new floors apply a coat of liquid^ wood filler before painting ; the wood filler 
will dry in eight hours, when the first coat of paint can be applied. Apply with 
a flat wall brush, 3 or 33^ inches wide. Thin with turpentine. 

Some parts of the floor receive more wear than others. For this reason it 
is advisable to touch up same occasionally. Do this before the paint wears 
through to the wood and you will always have a neat and solid floor. The 
Seroco Floor Paints can be vised on chairs, benches, toys or any furniture and 
leave a hard, nrn-sticky surface. 

PORCH FLOORS or any floors inside and outside should be painted with 
Seroco Floor Paints. 

SEROCO FLOOR COLOR VARNISH. 

This material is something new in a floor finish as it 

stains and \-arnishes in one operation and is meeting with 
such success that the very same material is commanding 
high prices sold under different manufacturers' brands. 
Two coats will make a hard surface which will wear and 
look well a long time. 

Dark oak or walnut will conceal all discolorations in 
an old floor. It is superior to anything in varnishing 
around rugs for you can select a color that will har- 
monize with the rug. Can be used on soft wood floors as 

well as hardwood and can be made to look like hardwood with A-ery little labor 

or expense. 

DIRECTIONS. Treat all new hardwood floors with Seroco Paste Wood Filler 

(see directions for paste wood filler on page 9). After the filler is dry sand- 
paper with No. Y2 sandpaper or No. 1 steel wool (steel wool will work better and 
quicker), remove all dust and apply the Seroco Floor Color Varnish to the whole 
floor. After twenty-four hours apply the second coat. Should there be very 
large cracks in the floor, fill them with Seroco Crack Filler, using a putty 
knife; the crack filler will dry in thirty-six hours, when it should be sand- 
papered to a smooth finish. 




NEW SOFT WOOD FLOORS require no filler and the Seroco Floor Color 
Varnish can be applied without preparing the surface. It is best, however, to 
put on one coat of yellow floor paint before applying the floor color varnish. 
This will give it a better finish and any color can be applied over it. 

OLD PAINTED FLOORS. Apply one coat of yellow floor paint, allow 
twenty-four hours to dry, then apply the floor color ^•arnish in the same inanner 
as above. Should the old paint be very uneven, remove it with paint and var- 
nish remover; this material will soften the paint in an instant and same can 
then be scraped off with a 3-inch scraper. 

Use a damp cloth for cleaning floors finished with Seroco Floor Color Var- 
nish and rub dry with a dry cloth; put the cloth over a broom, as this will make 
the work easier. Never use any alkaline preparations, soap or ammonia. If 
there is any grease on the floor, remove it with a soft cloth dampened with 
kerosene and wipe dry with another cloth. 





SEROCO FLOOR OIL. 

A special preparation for floors of residences and stores. 

Kitchen or dining room floors, which are very much used, will look 

better and be kept clean with less labor when oiled occasionally. 

It brings out the natural color of the wood and is less expensive 

than other floor finishes. It is a sanitary preparation, as all dust 

coming in contact with the floor becomes lifeless and when the 

floor oil is used no dust is raised when sweeping. As only a small 

quantity is required and so very easily applied, we advise that the 

floor be oiled once a month, as then no dirt will penetrate the w^ood and floors 

can be kept neat and clean without employing a scrub brush. 

DIRECTIONS. Pour a small quantity in a shallow dish or pie plate, then 
saturate a woolen cloth with the oil, wring out the surplus and proceed to oil 
the floor by wiping it in the same manner as when washing the floor 

SEROCO PREPARED FLOOR WAX. 

Hardwood floors can be brought to a beautiful polish by using 
the Seroco Prepared Floor Wax. Prepared floor wax for hard- 
wood floors is becoming more popular e\'ery day. 

FOR OAK, MAPLE, BIRCH, BEECH and all other hardwoods 

apply a coat of Seroco Paste Wood Filler (see directions for paste 

wood filler on page 0). Allow at least tweh'e hours for filler to 

thoroughly harden after rubbing off, then with a cloth apply a 

thin coat of Seroco Prepared Floor Wax and polish with a dry cloth. After 

two hours apply the second coat and polish in the same manner; it is 

then finished. 

FOR PINE AND FIR FLOORS apply one coat of oak or mahogany floor 
color varnish, allow thirty-six hours for varnish to harden, then apply two coats 
of floor wax as directed for hardwood floors. This material cannot be used on 
floors that have been oiled unless the floor is first scraped. 

SEROCO VARNISH STAIN. 

This material is principally used for renovating old fur- 
niture and woodwork and gives excellent satisfaction when 
used for the purpose intended. It can be used on new wood- 
work where a quick finish is essential, but it will not make as 
good a finish on new work as the oil stain and varnish. An 
old piece of furniture, which is considerably marred and worn, 
can be renewed by a coat of varnish stain. In selecting a 
color, it is necessary that the color selected is of a similar 
shade as the old finish; for instance, a piece of furniture fin- 
ished in mahogany cannot be refinished in light oak by apply- 
ing a light oak varnish stain. The varnish stain in this case 
will have to be of a dark color, either mahogany or walnut. 
To finish a dark piece of furniture in oak, first apply two coats of yellow floor 
paint ; after the paint is dry, apply the varnish stain with a \-arnish brush. Fur- 
niture or woodwork, which is of a light color, can be refinished in a darker shade 
without painting by simply applying the varnish stain. Portions of the old 
finish will show through the stain "which will give it the grained effect. 

SEROCO OIL STAIN. 

A thin liquid for staining new woods and is made in several natural wood 
colors. This material is used on new wood only which has not been finished 
and cannot be applied over painted or varnished surfaces. It should not be 
used as a paint, as it does not cover the wood, it simply penetrates the wood 
and dries perfectly flat and is finished by a coat or two of varnish being applied 
over it. Soft or hard pine interior woodwork is usually stained and then finished 
with two coats of light hard oil finish or interior varnish. Oak is varnished 




without staining, but some stain it with a light oak stain which gives the 
surface a better color. As before explained, this material does not cover the 
wood but leaves the natural grain of the wood. Soft wood interior woodwork 
is usually grained, but a less expensive finish can be had by staining and then 
varnishing. This makes a fairly good finish and is preferred by many to the 
grained. Oil stain is used on new furniture and all new work to be finished in 
varnish. 

DIRECTIONS. For hard or soft pine woodwork. Clean off all dirt with 
sandpaper or steel wool (see page 9 for steel wool), then apply the stain with 
a flat varnish brush, 2 or 2i^nnches wide. A light coat is sufficient; allow until 
the next day for the stain to dry. Now prepare some putty and make it of the 
same color as the stained wood by mixing some of the stain with it. Putty up 
all nail holes and imperfections, which will be sufficiently dry the following day; 
now apply one coat of Seroco Liquid Wood Filler with a flat varnish brush 
(the brush used for staining will do). The filler will dry in twelve hours, when 
the first coat of varnish can be applied. Light hard oil finish is recommended 
but interior varnish can be used. One coat of varnish will make a fine finish, 
but two coats are recommended for durability. Use a new brush for the var- 
nish. (See full instructions below regarding varnishing.) 

FOR OAK AND OTHER HARDWOOD WOODWORK. Proceed in the 
same manner as directed for soft wood, but when ready to fill the wood use a 
paste wood filler, which is expressly made for hardwoods. (See page 9). Thin 
the filler with turpentine so it can be applied with a brush. Apply it as you 
would paint, putting on a heavy coat. Now, as soon as drying has commenced, 
which will be evident by the gloss disappearing, rub ofT with excelsior or a piece 
of burlap, rub ofT all of the svn"plus filler and after a few hours it will be ready 
for the varnish which you can then apply as directed for soft woods. 

VARNISHING. 

There is nothing that gives as much satisfaction as a coat of varnish. It is 

surprising what a wonderful transformation one coat of ^•arnish will make. Any 
one can do a good job of varnishing and, as the material can now be had at very 
low prices, it means a saving to you to give the furniture and woodwork a coat 
of varnish which will act as a preservative; the furniture and woodwork will 
last longer for it will receive better care. 

DIRECTIONS. The different varnishes are described which will enable 
you to select the kind best adapted for the work in hand. Keep tightly corked 
when not in use. Should the \-arnish be \'ery thick, thin with turpentine, but 
it is better to take care of the varnish, so it will not thicken, by keeping it corked, 
as ^■arnish will wear longer when used in its natural state. Clean brushes are 
necessary for good work, therefore, do not use old paint brushes or brushes that 
have been soaked in oil. Varnish brushes can be had for so little money that 
It docs not pay to use an old brush. Varnish should not be brushed out as with 
paint, bvit should be laid on, that is, spread on a hea\'y coat and e\'en it with as 
few strokes with the brush as is possible. Of course, too hea\-y a coat will 
cause it to run and this must be avoided. For old varnished furniture, remove 
the gloss by rubbing it with pumice stone and water. Take finely powdered 
pumice stone and mix with water to a creamy paste and with a cloth dipped 
in the pumice stone give the surface a good rubbing. This is not intended to 
remove the old varnish, simply to remove the gloss. Wash with clear water 
and let dry, when it will be ready for the varnish as describe^l. 

SEROCO CRACK FILLER. 

A preparation for filling cracks in floors, furniture and wood- 
work. It is different from putty as it will not crack nor crumble; 
it dries very" hard, at the same time retaining sufficient elasticity 
to prevent it from cracking. Old shrunken floors can be made to 
look e\'en and neat with this preparation. 

DIRECTIONS. Remove the filler from the can and knead it 
as you would putty. Occasionally the oil in the crack filler will be found sep- 
arated from the solid substance; this oil must be worked in again bv kneading 




It can be appli^^d with the palm of the hand, but in most cases a putty knife 
will do better work. For dark floors and furniture, mix a small quantity of 
dry burnt umber with the crack filler and make it as dark as you like by adding 
more of the dry burnt umber. 

SEROCO PASTE WOOD FILLER. 

For filling the pores of hardwoods such as oak, maple, mahogany, ash, etc. 

All new woods should be filled before finishing, as then the \-arnish will not pen- 
etrate the wood but will remain on the surface. 

DIRECTIONS. Remove the substance from the can and place it in a larger 
can, then add turpentine or benzine and stir thoroughly, add sufficient turpen- 
tine so it can be applied with a brush. Use a flat wall brush. When drying has 
commenced, which will be evident by the gloss disappearing, rub off the surplus 
with excelsior or a piece of burlap. The filler will dry in twelve hours, when 
the first coat of varnish can be applied. For an extra smooth finish, after the 
filler is dry, give the surface a rubbing with No. 1 steel wool. 

SEROCO LIQUID WOOD FILLER. 

This material is intended for filling soft woods and is ready to be applied. 

It makes an excellent wall filler for plastered walls, in fact, there is nothing on 
the market that will work as well as the Seroco Liquid Wood Filler. It thor- 
oughly seals up the pores in plastered walls and is the best undercoat for paint. 

DIRECTIONS. Apply the filler with a fiat varnish or paint brush. A thin 
coat will be sufficient. The filler will dry in twelve hours, when the surface 
is ready for the paint or varnish. The wood filler takes the place of one coat 
of varnish and a coat of varnish applied o\'er it will produce a better finish 
than two coats of varnish without the filler. 

STEEL WOOL AND SHAVINGS. 

j%^-^^'J'^^— ■ -^"--7 '■ "''='''' ■" ^ This is a German invention and has been used 

I sTEEL | wooL ^ by German woodworkers over twenty years. It is now 

V"^^^^^"^'^^ ' ' \^ ^ ^^ ^^m^ extensively used in this country and found superior 
to sandpaper for many purposes. It is a mass of fine 
fibers of steel resembling curled hair, which while sharp does not scratch, but 
will cut as smoothly as the finest sandpaper, emery or pumice stone. Used for 
rubbing down fillers and varnishes, it takes the place of sandpaper or pumice 
stone and will be found a much better article to use. For finishing mouldings 
and working around curves, which can not be done with sandpaper, the steel 
wool adapts itself to the shape of mouldings and car\'ings. No. is \-ery fine 
and used in place of the finest sandpaper; No. 1 is slightly coarser and used for 
rubbing down fillers; No. 3 is still coarser and is used in place of sandpapei; No. 
1, 3^ and 2. Steel shavings are used for removing old paint and varnish 
and for cleaning floors and rough work in general, also for remo\ing rust on iron 
utensils, farm machinery, sto\-e pipes, radiators, in fact, any and all iron work. 

SHELLAC. 

Liquid shellac consists of dry shellac mixed with wood alcohol. It is used 
by furniture manufacturers for first coating on fine furniture. This material 
does not penetrate the wood, but remains on the surface and dries hard with a 
high gloss similar to varnish. It comes in two colors, orange and white; the 
orange shellac is used when it is not necessary to preser\'e the grain of the wood. 
It is also extensively used for shellacing knots and sappy streaks before painting, 
as the shellac will prevent the resin from working through the paint. White 
shellac is used when it is desired to preserve the grain of the wood. 

Apply shellac the same as varnish. 




Simple 



GRAINING COLORS IN OIL. 

The colors listed under the heading, " Grain- 
ing Colors in Oil," are used for graining purposes 
only and are put up in paste form. To prepare 
same add boiled linseed oil ; very little only is re- 
quired, for the color should be heavier than ordin- 
ary paint, otherwise it will run and spoil the work. 
Should you find it too thin, add dry whiting or a 
small quantity of putty to thicken it. Several 
years ago a new roller was invented (as illustrated 
and listed in our paint sample book), with which 
everyone, without the least experience, can do a 
perfect job of graining and the natural grain of any 
wood so imitated that it is impossible to distin- 
guish the natural grain from the grain made by 
the graining roller. Doors which formerlv were 
painted can be made to look like oak with the 
graining roller without the assistance of the experienced grainer. 
directions sent with every set of Davis Improved Wood Grainers. 

SEROCO PAINT AND VARNISH REVIVER. 

Here is a great money saver, something you cannot afford to be without; 

it will raise the dead, that is, in the life of paint and varnish. Where the paint 
or varnish is in good condition, but very greasy, dirty or dull, this article will 
remove the grease, dirt, etc., and bring out the original color of the paint and 
luster of the varnish. This reviver combines the properties of a cleaner as well 
as a renewer for any painted or varnished surface. It will remove the grease 
and dirt spots from painted and varnished surfaces, and by a little rubbing it 
will produce a finish equal to new work. This reviver possesses particular ad- 
vantages o^•er other articles of this class, as it combines the property of cleaning 
and polishing in one operation, and saves going over a surface a second time. 
DIRECTIONS. The dry dust and dirt should be dusted off, then apply the 
re\'iver with a cloth or rag or cotton waste ; allow to remain on the surface for 
a few minutes, then wipe dry and rul:) with a clean piece of waste or cloth. 

SEROCO PAINT AND VARNISH REMOVER. 

This preparation is used for softening old varnish, paint, shellac, wax, 
enamels, etc., when it can be wiped off with excelsior or a cloth. It is the best 
preparation on earth for removing old finishes, as it does the work perfectly and 
leaves the surface as clean as when new. It will not change the color of the 
wood nor will it injure the hands of the operator. The Seroco Paint and Var- 
nish Remover works like magic and is a great time and labor saver and econ- 
omical as well, for one gallon will remo\-e over 300 square feet of varnish or paint. 

DIRECTIONS. Apply with a brush or cloth. The old finish will at once 
become soft, when it can be removed with excelsior or a cloth; then wipe the 
surface with a cloth saturated with benzine or turpentine, when it can be re- 
' finished. 

SEROCO FURNITURE AND PIANO POJISH. 

The best polish on earth, guaranteed not to injure the finest finish. It is 
the best on earth and sold for less money than any other, as a pint can is sold 
at a lower price than a four-ounce bottle of other makes. It is used by high 
class furniture and piano manufacturers who would not use any other. 

Seroco Furniture and Piano Polish is adapted for use on old as well as new 
furniture. It has the advantage o\-er other polishes of not gumming up the 
corners and, therefore, will not collect dust or dirt. Applied as per directions 
on the package, it will be found to remo\'e the dull appearance incident to var- 
nished surfaces during damp or muggy weather. It is perfectly harmless and 
will not affect the varnish in any way. 

Another advantage it possesses is the small amount of labor required in 
applying it ; being free from greasy substances, it requires but very little rubbing 



10 




to bring the surface to a brilliant polish, at the same time removing all ordinary 
dirt and grease spots. It can be used as well on ordinary furniture as on the 
finest piano, organ or other highly finished work. 

DIRECTIONS. Remove all dry dust or dirt from the surface to be polished. 

Shake the can well before using. Saturate a piece of wadding, cotton or any 
soft material with the polish and rub well on the surface. Only a few minutes 
will be required to obtain a brilliant and smooth finish. Then with a perfectly 
dry and clean piece of cotton, rub long enough to remove all moisture from the 
finish. When not using the polish keep the can well corked. 

SEROCO BUGGY AND CARRIAGE PAINT. 

Improved machinery and increased demand has 
reduced the cost of painting material to the extent 
that today, a strictly high grade, durable buggy paint 
made of the very best material, can be purchased 
for 50 cents per quart can. No need of tra^'eling 
the roads in a gray looking vehicle. It is not a 
difficult thing to do, anyone can do the work and 
make a good job of it. 

DIRECTIONS. Begin by removing the wheels and have the vehicle 
rest on barrels or any supports. Procure some No. 2 sandpaper and 
sandpaper the body and running parts. After sandpapering the body 
and running parts, put on the wheels and sandpaper them in the same manner. 
It is not intended to remove the old paint, simply to take off the gloss and even 
the surface. After sandpapering, give it a general dusting, when the vehicle is 
ready for the paint. If any grease is on the hubs, clean off with benzine or tur- 
pentine; it is ad\-isable to give the hubs a coat of orange shellac, which will pre- 
A'ent any grease, which should remain on the hubs, from working through. 
Remove the wheels and begin on the body. Apply an even coat of paint with 
a bristle or badger hair varnish brush, next paint the running gear, then put on 
the wheels and give them a coat o.f paint. It is needless to say that this work 
should be done out of the way of dust. Allow about twenty-four hours or until 
the next day for first coat to dry ; now should there be any imperfections such as 
holes, cracks and dents, putty them up with a putty made in the following man- 
ner: Make a stiff dough "by mixing whiting with some of the paint you are 
using, then add about one-third white lead ground in oil ; work smooth by knead- 
ing; if too thin add whiting. Putty up the imperfections using a putty knife. 
The putty will dry in twelve hours, then sandpaper the putty spots to even 
them and' apply the second coat of paint, which proceed to do in the same order 
as above. Steel wool is highly recommended to use in place of sandpaper. 

SEROCO WAGON AND IMPLEMENT PAINT. 



For painting wagons, farm implements and all 
machinery used on the farm. 

DIRECTIONS. For one-coat work, sandpaper 
the parts lightly; after dusting, apply the paint with 
a 1, 1 3^ or 2-inch varnish brush. Spread on a heavy 
coat, but do not brush out, the fewer the strokes, 
the better the finish. The paint will dry in less than 
twenty-four hours, but three days should be allowed 

for it "to thoroughlv harden. For two-coat work, apply in the same manner as 
directed for Seroco" Buggy and Carriage Paint. On one-coat work the new paint 
must be of the same color as the old paint on the wagon or implement, otherwise 
two coats will have to be applied. Thin with turpentine only if too thick. Use 
No. 2 sandpaper or No. 3 steel wool for sandpapering. Steel wool is recom- 
mended for such work. 





FRENCH OCHRE IN OIL. 
Pure French yellow ochre ground in linseed oil in paste form. Some painters 
still use this material for priming, but we do not recommend it for this purpose, 
as the best paint will not wear when applied on a surface primed with 
ochre. It can be used for priming when mineral paints are used. This material 
goes through a thorough process of grinding, therefore, is far superior to dry 
ochre mixed with linseed oil by hand. To prepare it for priming (that is painting 
the lirst coat), add boiled linseed oil in the proportion of 5 gallons of oil to 100 
pounds of ochre ground in oil. 

VENETIAN RED IN OIL. 

This material is prepared in the same manner as French ochre in oil and used 
for the same purpose. 

PUTTY. 

Made from whiting and pure linseed oil, A very cheap article is now being 
made, consisting of whiting and marble dust mixed with a mineral oil, and is 
absolutely worthless; when used for puttying window glass, it will crumble in 
a short time. Pure linseed oil putty can be purchased at 2)^ cents per pound, 
therefore, why use a cheap article? When puttying window glass, use a putty 
knife, which can be had from 5 cents up, as a -better job can be done with the 
proper tools. Should the putty become hard from age, soften with linseed 
oil, kneading it while you add the linseed oil. 

COLORS IN OIL. 

These colors are in paste form and used for tinting paints. We 

cannot go into detail as to how the different shades are produced 
and if you are inexperienced and desire a certain shade, you cannot 
do better than to purchase the Seroco House Paints and be on the 
safe side by being protected tinder the five-year guarantee. To the 
painter who desires the best colors, we can recommend the Seroco 
Colors in Oil as being superior to any on the market for strength and tone. 

DRY COLORS. 

These colors are in their natural state as they come from the manufac- 
turers. Some mix the dry colors with linseed oil for painting barns, etc. This 
is not recommended, as you really have nothing but a coarse mixture, which 
will not withstand the weather, as you have a porous paint. Seroco Barn Paint 
is the cheapest in the end, for then you have a paint that is thoroughly ground, 
which makes it strictly weather proof and will wear three times as long. Dry 
colors are principally used for tinting calcimine and making graining colors. 

PURE ZINC GROUND IN OIL. 

Oxide of zinc ground in pure linseed oil. It is now extensively used in con- 
nection with white lead in making paint and improves the paint wonderfully. 
Sulphur and gas fumes have very little effect on paints made with w^hite lead 
and zinc. French zinc is principally used for making a flat white paint by thin- 
ning with turpentine and a little dryer added. This paint will produce ajlat 
finish, that is without any gloss, a coat of varnish must be applied over it. 
will produce a fine glossy white surface for any interior work. 

SEROCO WHITE LEAD IN OIL. 

A combination of zinc and pure white lead ground in 
pure linseed oil. It is made by the latest improved ma- 
cninery and when mixed with pure linseed oil, it will make a 
Ijetter paint than strictly pure white and has been thoroughly 
tested. We recommend this white lead to those who prefer 
to mix their own paints, but the inexperienced should not 
bother with mixing their own colors when the highest grade 
of ready mixed paint can be purchased for 98 cents and 
less, per gallon, according to quantity desired. The above 
white lead will take 6 gallons of oil to 100 pounds of lead. 



This 




12 



STRICTLY PURE WHITE LEAD. 

We handle the following brands of pure white lead, Red Seal, Shipman, 
Eckstein, Southern and Collier. These brands are all made by the same process, 
made in factories located at different places, but they are all controlled Jdv one 
concern, therefore, there should not be any difference in quality. Put up in 
12^, 25, 50 and 100-pound kegs. The above white lead will take 6 gallons of 
linseed oil to 100 pounds of lead for a light paint and 5 gallons of oil for a heavy 
paint. 

GRAPHITE PASTE PAINT. 

Consisting of pure graphite aftd boiled linseed oil, thoroughly mixed by ma- 
chinery. Is a dark slate, the natural color of graphite. Very many use it for 
painting smoke stacks and iron work and it seems to give good satisfaction. 
To prepare it for painting, add 3 gallons of boiled linseed oil to 121^ pounds of 
graphite, which will make 4 gallons of ready mixed graphite paint. 

DRY GRAPHITE OR PLUMBAGO. 

The best grade is used for painting purposes and lubricating; the best is 
known as air floated and the very purest on the market. The next grade is 
principally used in the manufacture of stove polishes and paints. Large quan- 
tities of this graphite is used in foundries. 

COLD WATER PAINT. 

This material is made by a patent process and comes in the form of a dry 
powder. It is prepared by mixing with cold water; it must be mixed according 
to directions, otherwise it cannot be used. 

To prepare it properly, first make a paste of the powder by mixing a little 
water with it, stir thoroughly until you have a smooth creamy paste, then thin 
down by adding more water until it is of the same consistency as oil paint. Use 
a calcimine brush for applying the cold water paint. 

While the manufacturers recommend the cold water paint for outside pur- 
poses, we do not guarantee it to give satisfaction for this purpose. We handle 
the best cold water paint on the market, but to recommend it for outside work 
is out of the question, as no paint mixed with water will preserve your build- 
ings. Seroco Cold Water Paint is an excellent article for interior work to be 
used in place of any other lime preparation. It is superior to whitewash, as 
it does not rub ofT and will last longer than whitewash. It is adapted for rough 
interior walls, whether of plaster or wood, basements, interiors of barns, sheds, 
chicken houses, etc. Easily applied and quick drying. For interior walls of 
residences we recommend the Seroco Sanitary Calcimine; this material will 
make a better finish and can be removed with water at any time. The cold 
water paint cannot be washed off. 

SEROCO SANITARY CALCIMINE. 

Prepared calcimine is fast taking the place of the home made 
article and is becoming more popular e\'ery day, as the product is 
now so perfected that anyone without the least experience can do 
a good job of calcimi.iing. The article is prepared and only requires 
mixing with cold water. Prepare it by first mixing one part of 
the powder with one-half part cold water, add the water slowly 
while stirring; after the lumps have disappeared, slowly add one- 
fourth part more water and the mixture is ready for use. If the 
old calcimine is very dirty, remo\'e it from the walls with water 
and a sponge or cloth, but if not \'ery' dusty simply brush off any loose parti- 
cles and apply the new calcimine over the old coating. 

13 




THE CARE OF BRUSHES. 



Keep brushes in a cool or damp place and as 
near the floor as possible. Exposure to heat will 
cause the wood to shrink and the best brush to shed 
bristles. A brush should never be condemned be- 
cause it contains a few loose hairs. A careful 
person will get these out before putting the brush 
into use. 

Swelling a new brush is a very important item. 

Under no circumstances should a new brush be put 
in water to swell with the bristles down in the 
water, for water soaked bristles will always work 
fiabby, and if the bristles are of fine quality, they 
will nearly always twist. Put new 
brushes in the water with the 
handle down, as shown hi the illustration, letting the water 
come to the ferrule and not any further. This will swell 
the handles without soaking the elasticity out of the bristles. 
Old paint brushes, which* have become dry, treat in the 
same manner. Paint brushes, which have been once used 
in paint, can be put in water with the bristles in the water 
without injuring the bristles, as explained in the following: 





A good method for preserving used paint brushes is to 

suspend them in water by running a wire through a hole in the 
handle of the brush and allow the water to cover the bristles 
only. Another way is to drive nails through the side of a wood 
bvicket and suspend the brushes on the nails (see illustration.) 



If desired to store away paint brushes, 

wash them in turpentine and then in warm 
soapsuds, then store them in a cool place. 
Never put varnish brushes in water; they can be swelled the 
same as paint brushes, but the bristles should never touch 
water, whether a new or old brush ; keep them suspended in 
raw linseed oil when not in use. 





Never use a varnish brush for any other purpose, but use it for varnishing 
only. Never attempt to varnish with a brush which has been used in paint ; 
you will never do good work with it. 

Never put a brush in newly slacked lime, as it will destroy the bristles. 
Many brushes are ruined in this manner and then returned to the seller with 
the claim that the brush is of inferior quality. 



Camel's Hair Brushes. Camel's hair and fitch brushes will last longer ar,d 
work better, if, when not in use, they are rinsed in turpentine and washed in 
warm soapsuds. Then keep them in raw linseed oil. 



A FEW SUGGESTIONS. 

Washing Paint. When soapsuds are used for washing old paint before re- 
painting, be sure and rinse off well, otherwise it will pre\-ent the paint from dry- 
ing, partictilarly on greasy work. 

When paint fails to dry, take equal parts of japan dryer and turpentine and 
apply all over with a brush, rubbing it well in the paint. 

Painting on cloth and paper. Alcohol shellac mixed with any dry color 

will make an excellent paint for painting ornaments or letters on cloth or paper. 

Removing paint from clothing. Saturate the paint spots with equal parts 
of turpentine and ammonia, two or three times if necessary; this will soften the 
paint when it can be washed out with soapsuds. 

Hard Putty — How to remove. Take muriatic acid and with a brush or 
cloth fastened to a stick apply to the putty, which will soften it, when it can be 
scraped off with a putty knife. The acid, after the putty has been removed, 
shovild be rinsed off. 



A FEW WORDS ABOUT SEROCO READY MIXED PAINT, 

THE HIGHEST GRADE READY MIXED 

PAINT ON THE MARKET. 

We are the only house in the trade that does not buy a gallon of paint to 
sell again. We make every gallon of paint that we handle. We market the 
very best paints at about one-half the prices_asked by all others for paints of 
equal quality, and the only reason we can do this is because we are manufac- 
turers. In buying paints from us, you are not paying a price that includes a 
profit to the jobber, wholesaler or retail merchant. You are buying directly from 
the manufacturer and you are paying a price that covers only the first cost, the 
cost of the m^aterial and labor, with only our one small manufacturing profit 
added. You are buying as cheap, or cheaper, than your dealer or any other 
dealer buys. You are saving all his profits, and you are getting a better grade 
of paint than you could otherwise secure. 

All of our oils, pigments and other materials are bought in very large quan- 
tities at the very lowest contract prices. Everything we use is carefully inspected 
and analyzed for quality and purity, something that smaller dealers and most 
manufacturers are not in a position to do. We employ the most up to date 
and modern labor saving paint mixing and grinding machinery. We run our 
paint factory the year round, and we are able to operate it on a most economical 
basis. All this helps to make our prices as low as they are. Every operation 
is intended to reduce cost but to maintain quality, and our customers get the 
benefit of e\-crv effort we make in these directions. 



15 



THE SUPERIORITY OF SEROCO READY MIXED PAINTS 
TO THE PAINTS MIXED BY HAND. 



There is no reason nowadays for trying to mix 
your own paint. We claim and we can assure yau 
that our Ready Mixed Seroco Paint is as superior 
to paint made of white lead and oil and stirred to- 
gether in a bucket as the electric lamp of the present 
day is superior to the tallow candle of former gen- 
erations. It is surely evident that a paint manu- 
factured with modern machinery and the best ma- 
terial at its command, caij produce an article far 
superior to the man, even though he is a practical 
painter, who buys lead and oil and mixes it in a tub 
with a ladle. It is certain that modern machinery 
can mix the materials more thoroughly and at a 
smaller expense than a painter or individual with 
a pot and stick. Our modern paint mixing and 
grinding machinery does the work with wonderful 
thoroughness. To make good paint you must grind 
and knead the oils and pigments together by ma- 
chinery, as the friction of the mill stones heats the oil, making it run more 
freely. It puh'erizes the pigments and soaks every particle of the materials with 
oil, making a paint that is smooth, co\'ers well, and works thoroughly under 
the brush. 




If you are not convinced of the advisabiUty of buying a good, high class, 
ready mixed paint like the Seroco, just for an experiment try the old way of 
mixing the paint Avith a tub and stick. Then, after you have thoroughly 
stirred your oil, white lead, and tints in the tub, take your putty knife and 
spread a little of this paint on a pane of glass. Rub it out well with the 
putty knife and you will see that it is all streaked by the small particles 
that ha\'e not- been ground. In plain words your paint is not good. It is not 
mixed thoroughly. It will not cover well or v/ork well or do a good job. 

Don't waste time trying to mix your own paint. There is nothing in it. 
No advantage whatever. In fact, trying to mix your own paint might well 
be compared to a farmer who would use a flail to thresh his grain instead of 
taking advantage of the modern time and labor saving threshing machines. 

It is economy to paint thoroughly and often. Painting is cheap compared 
to lumber and other building material. A good coat of paint goes so far to- 
wards preser\ing woodwork of any kind, so improves the appearance of the 
article on which it is applied, that the cost of the paint is nothing compared to 
the advantages of painting. It will repay everyone handsomely to keep his 
buildings of all kinds, buggies, implements, etc., well painted. Money in\-ested 
in paint is the cheapest kind of economy. 

HAVE YOU OUR PAINT COLOR SAMPLE BOOK? 

If you have not received our Paint Sample book showing samples of the actual 
colors of all the paints we make, do not fail to write for it and we will be glad to 
send it to you entirely free of charge. This sample book contains S5 samples 
of the different paints we manufacture, together with descriptions and prices, 
and if you have not already received this paint sample book, do not fail to write 
and asic for it. It will be sent to anyone by mail, postpaid, free on application. 



16 



HOW TO ASCERTAIN THE QUANTITY OF PAINT 

REQUIRED. 

Measure the length, width and height of the building ; the height is measured 
at one corner of the building and not necessary to measure to the highest point 
of the gable. For instance, the building measures 20x30 feet — 20 feet high, 
now you have two sides, 30 feet in length each, and two ends, each 20 feet wide; 
add these together, which makes a total of 100 feet; multiply this by the height, 
which is 20 feet and the result, 2,000 square feet, is the number of feet to be cov- 
ered with paint. One gallon of Seroco Ready Mixed Paint will cover from 
225 to 300 square feet of surface, according to the surface; some surfaces are 
very porous and absorb more paint than others, therefore, in figuring we suggest 
that the basis of 250 square feet to the gallon be taken. Now you divide 250 
into 2,000, the result will give you the number of gallons required for two coats, 
which in this case is 8 gallons. 

Example : 

Front 20 feet 

Rear 20 feet 

Side 30 feet 

Side 30 feet 

Total 100 feet 

Multiply height 20 feet_ 

Total ^OOTquare feet 

Divide by 250)2,000(8 gallons 

ABOUT THE COVERING POWER OF SEROCO READY 

MIXED PAINT. 

Seroco Ready Mixed Paint will cover more surface than any other paint on 
the market. We do not claim that our paint will do more than it actually will 
do; a trial will convince you of this. Our paint in most cases will cover more 
than 300 square feet to the gallon, but it is better to be on the safe side and avoid 
any inconveniences of a shortage. Should you have some paint left, it is cer- 
tainly not a loss, as good paint can always be used around the house. 

Selecting Colors. In order to assist our friends in making proper and suit- 
able selections for "ta-imming, we have selected three trimming colors for each 
shade of paint ; these are designated by the numbers printed on the right of every 
sample in our color sample book, with the exception of a few positive colors 
which are never used for the body of buildings. You can select any of the num- 
bers gi\-en with the assurance that the colors will harmonize and have a pleasing 
effect. 

For instance, if color No. 208 pearl is desired for the body, we recominend 
No. 215 cream, or No. 233 slate or No. 250 azure. blue for the trimming color, 
any of these colors will look well and harmonize perfectly and only a matter 
of taste as to which to use. If you are in doubt as to which of the three trim- 
ming colors to select, we would suggest that you look at other buildings and note 
the different color combinations, you may find something similar and get an 
idea as to the appearance when on the building. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 051 204 7 m 




